Final Reflections

Well I’m writing this on the airplane out of Mexico, which makes me feel like one of those fancy businessmen a couple rows ahead of me. I’m killing time and listening to my creatively-titled “Mexico” playlist, which reminded me I have a blog! I’d just like to sum up my last week in Mexico and share some reflections on what it’s meant for me. I’m very sleep-deprived, so bear with me.

While some of these things might not make sense to everyone, here is a list of things I’ll really miss about Mexico:
Music everywhere, amazing hot sauces to put on everything (pizza, chips, mangoes, vegetables, whatever), the sound of Mexican slang words, fruit in the street, musicians on the city buses, calls like “ay güerita!”, aguas frescas, the smell of flowers, the sun beating down, musicians in city buses, beans with everything, Mexican coca cola, speaking Spanish, food stands everywhere, the sounds of Banda, Wall Street, rides in Chavarin’s cars, wiggling my pointer finger to say “yes,” chilaquiles, not having bus schedules, drinking beers in cars, dogs in the street instead of taken to the pound, everyone, whether you know them or not, standing up to greet you with a cheek kiss, a relaxed attitude towards time.

Right now I’m in the Houston Airport and I’m currently feeling the effects of sadness of leaving Mexico. I think it’s more acute than when I left Germany because leaving Germany, my time there and experience with their culture was something private that I had in my memories and became an object across the Atlantic that I could visit. However, arriving here in Dallas, I’m affronted with a bunch of terrible looking “Mexican” restaurants and everyone in the food court is speaking Spanish. I would love to just speak Spanish to them and ignore the bro dudes in their khaki shorts and flip flops. I can’t leave Mexico behind so easily and think of it as a separate part of my life, which is good and bad. Its heavy integration with the U.S. and its culture means I have easier access to Mexican sauces, music and people. However, I’m frustrated by how so many of my fellow Americans think they know all about Mexico, when really most don’t at all!! I want to protect my memory of Mexico but I can’t do that here. For now, I’m contenting myself to lurk next to the Italian stand in the food court and listen to everyone using Mexican slang, imagining myself at my favorite taco stand instead, with blasting music as the only rprotest against the dry sun beating against the pavement.

My Last Week in Mexico

In order to maintain my memory of my last Mexican week, as well as to give all my faithful readers a sample, here is how I spent my busy last week in Mexico.

I finished my last final on Wednesday, 8 days ago. Although I did terribly due to the crazy heat and having done minimal studying, I found out yesterday I passed! That Wednesday I recovered with a regular night of sleep, much needed due to much sleep deprivation during my Mexico City trip and all-night study attempt. Thursday morning I went to my friend Chavarin’s English class, which was completely hilarious because he is completely hilarious. It was interesting to see people in the process of learning English, and even thought it was only Intermediate 2, I felt a little good about my Spanish because I helped translate some words for them. It also convinced me I never want to teach English in a foreign country. The teacher was from Seattle as well, and she told me she worked 48 hours a week..basically constant English, and her Spanish had gotten worse. No thanks. After that, Chavarin and I ate lunch at his house, I hung out with his 6 chihuahuas and we then went to Parque Colomos, a huge park right by my house. We fed tortillas to a bunch of birds and squirrells, petted ponies, explored the Japanese and Mexican gardens, stumbled upon a “Portland Sister City Garden” (what the odds?), climbed a giant spider sculpture and snuck behind a fence to find the spring that Chavarin used to play hooky at in high school. It was cool, I love nature! Plus the first time I’ve seen water fountains in Mexico. The park costs 4 pesos to get in for regular admission, about 35 cents. While it helps maintain the park and makes sure young punks don’t wander in so easily every day, I suppose, it seems kind of discriminatory against truly poor people, who can’t enjoy this park, which is surely supported by the government as well.


With Chavarin's chihuahua-adorable!


In the Japanese Garden!

Thursday night I went to a Rotary meeting, in preparation for applying for a Rotary scholarship back home. While I freaked out about arriving 30 minutes late, I should have realized relaxed time attitudes apply to important businesspeople as well, because we still waited for many people. They were very kind and welcoming, and a mariachi band even came to serenade the mothers due to the closeness of mother’s day. How stereotypically Mexican can you get? The party finally died down at midnight, 3.5 hours later, at which time not so much work had been completed. I came home and went out with some friends..the night was not so cool because there were dbags on the loose, but I was at an interesting venue, a converted house-to-bar with pool.

Friday I went with my two favorite gringas, Molly and Kimzey, to a water park called Los Camachos that Kimzey and I have been scheming to visit for weeks and weeks. Well, our dreams came true and we took the 25 cent bus outside the city to a gorgeous setting with mountains, a river and a waterfall! While the water park was not quite up to U.S. “standards,” I had a blast! They only ran one slide at a time and the slide-controller was an old man in a flannel shirt..I love it! The entrance was a little less than $6 all day and even the beers were about $1 each!! Can you imagine this at a U.S. waterpark? We enjoyed the water, made some new friends and wound up getting a ride home in the back of a pick-up truck. One of my Mexican dreams! Winding through the mountains and river was beautiful, although I think I had heat exhaustion.


At the water park!


The ride home

I could barely rouse myself that night to head to (where else) my second home, Wall St. , with my friends Chavarin, Mauricio and Molly. We were met there by other friends, and then we got to go on the “Party Bus” for free: an old school bus with stripper poles, bumping reggaeton, flashing party lights and a guy wandering around blowing a whistle and pouring shots. We stopped at another Bar and danced around for a bit. I had a lot of fun!! And it was free, so even if I’d had a bad time, it was a $10 value.


The Party Bus



Note the stripper pole!

Saturday I wasted the whole day and that night went to Bali Bar with some of my best friends, and then was joined by some of my best friends from school, so it was great seeing all my favorite people in one place! My friend Juan rushed me to the bus station and I took a 3.30 am bus to Puerto Vallarta.


With friends at Bali Bar


Juan after rushing me to the bus station!

Once in Vallarta, I reunited with my family and Molly and Kimzey followed later that day. We basically spent two days being absolutely lethargic and lazy at the pool, with short forays into the ocean. Sampled a bit of Vallarta night life (free dranks!) and then back to Guadalajara with my parents on Tuesday. I felt really sick, but showed them around a bit and made it to Wall St. that night to say good-bye to Molly and some friends. A bunch of great friends from school and non-school came, so it was a lot of fun, even though I was so tired. I wound up getting home at 4 am after a three hour trek for burritos with my friend Gari..weird, but it was delicious. I said my good-byes to almost all of my crew that night..the good thing about studying abroad in Mexico is that the people aren’t too far away and it’s possible to dream about visiting them fairly soon!


Vallarta with My mom


Amigos!


My best friends


Another final group shot!


Hugest burrito ever!

On my final day in Mexico, I met my family downtown and we visited an old cemetery, an Orozco (muralist) museum and had lunch at my friend Mauricio’s family’s quesadilla place. In the evening, I said good-bye to them for a couple days and then went home to pack. I wasn’t really finished when my friend Chavarin and Mauricio showed up unexpectedly, so I just threw everything I could find in my suitcase and ran out the door. We went to Wall St. (sensing a theme?) and had micheladas, as well as another free ride on the party bus! We headed home and me and Chavarin took a two-hour nap to get up at 5 am, at which time he took me to the airport. Blasting techno and speeding down the highway for my final Mexican car ride, I felt very lucky to have such great friends like Chavarin here in Mexico! We said our good-byes and I went on my way .


Old cemetery-note the cat sleeping!


On the party bus!


Another Party Bus shot


Juan came to say good-bye!


Last time at Wall St.


Driving home...last time in the car together!


Chavarin and I at the airport at 5 am!

Stereotypes!: Impressions on Corruption and Employment

Some common stereotypes perpetuated about Mexicans in the U.S. have to do with corruption and work ethic. As well all know, stereotypes are lame, so here's my take on those subjects. I've often had people talk to me about corruption and employment in their country Mexico, so I thought I'd share everything people have said. Clearly just my impressions and the people I've met, but it's been very interesting for me.

Jobs

In terms of employment, any one who has ever stereotyped Mexicans as lazy is completely crazy--I have no idea why! Most people I know who aren't studying work 6 days a week and definitely heftier hours than most people in the U.S...and that's just people who have regular work. People who have stands, etc. on the street are there all day every day. I rarely see my host family because they all work Monday-Saturday, for many many hours. Everyone I know who studies (besides some people from very rich families at my university) all work a great deal in addition to their studies, usually for their families' businesses or food stands. A lot of people seem to have pretty minimal vacation..I even know some people who have jobs where they can't have their phones at! As my econ professor said, the stereotype of the "ranchero" or "campesino" taking a siesta under a tree is because he was up at 4 AM or earlier working away before it got too hot.

Another interesting aspect in terms of employment is that it is not illegal in Mexico to solicit employment of a certain age, gender, etc. Often signs in stores ask for applications from someone "20-30 years of age, female, with good recommendations." While this discrimination definitely happens in the U.S. in interviews or due to the names of the applicant, here it can be more blunt. This leads to what some people have mentioned to me about how it's hard for people to get jobs at 40 or later. While I also remember hearing about this when people were getting laid off in more force in the U.S., people I have talked to (who have been to the U.S.) seemed to think it was later there. Unless you're an exec, it's hard to break in to the business once you're past 30, they say (obviously, I don't have experience here). Also, there is a lack of work for people with degrees (obviously true in U.S. too). I've met several people who have set, I have a college degree and look at my job--for example, the last person who said this to me was collecting trash.

Amongst more familiar requests for employment applications, this notice asks that the person be between 18-3o years old and a female (and asks you to include photos with your application.

There are so many people trying to make a living on the streets by selling newspapers to parked cars, selling umbrellas, toys, food, water, etc. to parked cars, washing cars parked at stoplights and juggling, among others. It's obviously difficult to make a living this way, but they are super dedicated, it seems to me..and also pretty dangerous! This is a way for older people to find a job, since their other options are limited (some have said to me).

I'm not sure I'd like to work here in Mexico, it seems like a lot of people my age and who are rich enough to go to college, once done with school, work really really really hard-incredibly so. Those that aren't "lucky" enough to have employment in the city work hard hard hard at their food stands, restaurants, clothing stands at markets, etc. While I'm sure there are some tight jobs, it seems people just work so hard! Not so down.

Corruption

Again, everything I'm sharing here is particular to my experience. I think most gringos like myself have at least heard mention of corruption in Mexico. For one thing, there is the famous "mordida," literally meaning "bite" but it also means bribe. If you get in a car accident, drive the wrong way down a one-way street, drive with open containers or get caught drunk driving, instead of getting a ticket (or jail), it is typical to pay the police officer a little "bite" and be on your way. My first week here, a city bus I was on slammed into a car in front of it (basically rather reckless driving, or as reckless as you can be in a bus). He tossed the policeman who came over some pesos and we kept on our driving path. In the (minor, minor) car accident I was in (mentioned in earlier blog posts), both insurance agents came, along with a police officer. My friend Alan gave the police officer something probably like $5 and we moved on to the insurance stuff.

It is expected that police officers will be expecting mordidas, because they earn really low salaries. Of course, there is still a procedure for tickets. If a police officer pulls you over, you can demand a citation and then go deal with it in court. However, I imagine if this happened to me, it would be much easier to mordida and be on my way, especially because they are not too extravagant. I hear the nicer your car/ the richer you look, the more mordida is expected. My Mexico guidebook mentions to be careful about being stopped for invented infractions, and to demand a citation, but the only time I've been in a car that was pulled over, the driver had driven the wrong way down a one-way street (duh) and after talking to them, he still didn't pay a mordida.

I have often thought about the efficiency of this process-a lot of time and administration fees are saved, as opposed to the U.S. Also, although I've oft heard my foreign friends appalled at the corruption of police and how they can just charge "fake" mordidas all over the place, the only time I've been gotten a ticket in the U.S. was for what I think was invented-but of course the police are believed over me!! In that case, seems rather similar...just used some more tax money for it in my case. Police are trained to reach a quota of citations in the U.S. In Mexico, they are paid a lower salary, giving them an economic incentive to create their own quota. Just a thought...I sometimes feel frustrated by how the U.S. is portrayed as being such a great beacon for Mexico, when really we're not so different in some aspects.

As a side note, since penalties for drunk driving/driving with an open container are typically solved with a mordida, there is more incentive to drive drunk. Therefore, I somewhat often see people (mostly younger) with neck support braces..like cushy neck chairs. Don't worry anyone though, I've only once wanted a friend to drive slower, and I demanded they did with success!

Beyond driving penalties, police/government seems less controlled than my perspective from home (although I would partly say I believe the U.S. government, army and police has a lot of corruption that is well hidden). As my friend Fernando said, "Mexico is corrupt, but the government is even worse."

A couple examples:

1. My friend's family sells clothing at tianguis, a sort of street market. Federal representatives came and took a bunch of the merchandise and money for no reason, and his parents are still trying to get it back.

2. While this is a long story, here is the short version. Outside the Tecnológico de Monterrey in Monterrey (north where there is a great deal of drug trafficking) last month, there was a confrontation between the army and an armed group of presumably people having to do with drug trafficking. The government said no one from the campus community was injured, but two students were missing. When their parents pressed that it be investigated, it was discovered that two postgrad students had been killed by the army. They were without their ID cards, which indicates that they were just hoping they'd disappear..except these parents actually have money and power to protest. After this came out, this stepped up the amount of talking and complaints I heard about corruption.

3. When I was in Michoacán last weekend (another state known for drug trafficking), I was talking to two guys and we were talking about police. One mentioned the "Familia," which knows everything that goes on the state. He refused to talk more about it, saying they knew everything and we didn't know if something would get back to them. Since he was a miner who probably wouldn't have any insights on the Familia he would share with me, I found that kind of intense. Just living a normal life, except for a little more fear...although I imagine there are places like this in the U.S. as well.

As a disclaimer, please don't worry about me being abused by police, drug traffickers, etc. Of course, most of what I hear on this subject is just heresy, but I thought it'd be interesting to share. Just as you are probably fine if you steer clear of gangs and dangerous neighborhoods in U.S. cities, you are fine here in beautiful Mexico as well.

As I don't drive here and don't get involved with legal activity, the only run-in I've had with the police is when I was walking home a couple blocks late at night and they gave me a ride to my house...gotta love it.

Ups and Downs

This is going to be a very short entry, but I just wanted to note the amazingness of studying/living abroad. I was feeling a little bummed out this morning and kind of frustrated with various things going on. However, I've been wanting to visit this really old cemetery downtown in Guadalajara, so I walked outside in the heat. Unfortunately, I picked rush hour (2 pm) to go, but oh well. I got off near the cemetery but when I walked up, I saw it was closed until the beginning of May for cleaning. I then wandered around, looking at the amazing amazing houses and streets that I always love to see..with the eventual aim of checking out a market I'd heard of.

I wandered by a bookshop and decided to double back and take a look-I always love really old looking books, retro is the best. I wound up talking to the two abuelitos (grandpas) inside for over three hours, during which time we discussed literature, economics, marijuana legalization and just about everything else. They also gave me soft drinks and when I left, gifted me a book by a famous Mexican author from the state of Jalisco, where I'm living. I also bought an amazing old volume of "Las Mil y una Noches" or 1001 nights, filled with awesome old pictures. My future kids are going to have to learn Spanish! It just serves to always remind you that amazing opportunities for new friendships and experiences are waiting around every corner.

I'm now at home, getting ready for Karaoke en español night, trying to decide between going to Puerto Vallarta tomorrow and crashing with a gringo who owns a club event business, or going to a first communion and soccer game tomorrow night with an amigo. I love studying abroad, Mexico, the world, you name it!

Mexico City and Tapalpa

This entry details two weekend trips to two very different places: Mexico City, a megalopolis and the second biggest city in the world, rumored as pollution-filled urban jungle, and Tapalpa, quaint pueblo in the mountains three hours outside of Guadalajara.

Mexico City

Not wanting to join the hordes of my university's "weekend-away" trip, I decided to couchsurf to D.F. (Distrito Federal). I found Brenda on the website and contacted her...she welcomed me with open arms, even though it was her birthday weekend. Taking a 3 am bus for 8 hours to the city, I arrived in the morning, tired but very excited! As you've probably heard rumored, Mexico City is supposed to be kind of dangerous, and the metro is supposed to be a place you should be wary about. Upon arrival, I bought my ticket for one of the world's cheapest metro systems (about 25 cents) and while the metro was certainly packed, especially on one squeeze-worthy ride, I was "adopted" by someone on each metro who made sure I squeezed my way on and got off where I needed to--although this metro is incredibly clear and well-designed!

I talked to Brenda, my host, on the phone and decided to wander around the Zócalo, the central plaza of this super historical city with my backpack of things until she got off work. Although it was annoying to carry around, I love packing LIGHT because then you're not weighed down by luggage. Below is a picture of the Zócalo-it's amazing how powerful the stark simplicity of it is, I thought.

Zócalo

I first entered the Palacio Nacional to see famous murals of Diego Rivera, detailing the history of Mexico, from its indigenous people to the Spanish conquest and its brutality. The picture below is of a mural that shows the history of Mexico in three general parts: indigenous, conquistadors/independence, and then contemporary Mexico...along with some quotes from Marx! While I'm not a big art person, I love murals--you really learn a story or history from them, and they are so colorful.

Diego Rivera

After that, I visited the huge cathedral and pondered during a mass. They sang a beautiful version of "Nearer My God to Thee." I then had some enfrijoladas for lunch and wandered to the Secretaria of Education, where there were supposed to be many a Diego Rivera mural. When finally I gained entrance, only me and one other man were told to wait for escort--but no one came, so we wandered around ourselves. He was taking photos of statues to be restored for Mexico's bicentennial, but as an art major in college, he knew a lot about all the murals, so I had a guide explain all of Diego's murals about the harvest, capitalism, the family and history in Mexico. It really makes you appreciate them more, plus I made a new friend! We each had a sparkling water then I made my way to Brenda's metro stop to meet her.

Brenda is such a warm, amazing person, who I'm so lucky to have had as a host. She's beautiful and so welcoming. I felt very welcome in her apartment in which she lives with her mom and grandma. After a snack of soup and pasta, I took a nap to prepare for the evening. After waking up from the incredibly comfortable bed, her friend Galo passed by for us and we picked up two other friends on the way to her friend Alejandro's place, an awesome apartment. We had Domino's pizza, with lots of hot sauce, then drank some wine and danced around to techno. All her friends were really fun and welcoming, very friendly. I felt so at home! I was so excited to be sitting in this penthouse, looking out over Mexico City, with new chilango friends, instead of sitting in some generic hotel, going out with a bunch of gringas. At midnight, we rang in Brenda's birthday and stayed up until 6 am hanging out, I took an hour nap, and then we were off to Morelos at 7 am, to let the real birthday celebration of Brenda begin.

I went in Alejandro's convertible, which was awesome! My second time in a convertible..and it was great! See picture below..I'm beaming. Even though we left so early, we still got stuck in amazing traffic because it was "puente" and everyone has Monday off..so people were trying to get out of the city. Since we were in a convertible with the sun shining, blasting techno music and drinking chelas (beers, which everyone drinks in cars--open container laws are not too strictly enforced), I was having the time of my life.

Me and Galo in the shiny red convertible!

We stopped for lunch in Tres Marías, where I impressed everyone with how much chili I put on my food, and I tried Pulque, an ancient use of the agave plant that creates Tequila--it's supposed to have special healing powers. We then sped down the mountains, the sun still shining, and had a great view of mountain peaks and volcanos. We stopped to get more chelas, of course, and continued until we reached Cuautla, our destination for skydiving.

Stopping for chelas

Since I wasn't skydiving, I asked how long they thought we'd be there..I figured maybe an hour or two. When Galo answered, "maybe 9 hours," I was a little confused on what I would be doing...but instead I had an amazing, awesome, beautiful day! The state of Morelos is supposed to get 360 days of sunshine a year..and it was beautiful! I met more of Brenda's friends, all extremely kind and fun, and spent the entire day watching skydivers, enjoying the perfect sunny day, snacking and drinking calimotxo, wine and coca-cola.

With new friends Aldo and Baruk...Aldo lent me his sombrero so I wouldn't burn too much more on the perfect sunny day

Skydiver landing!

Around 7 pm, the skydiving finished up and everyone just hung out and talked for a couple more hours. Around 9, we headed back into town, where about 30 of us ate dinner..it was delicious, though I got sunscreen all over my things...sunscreen, my own worst enemy. Then we head to Brenda's friend Toño's country home for a birthday fiesta! The house was awesome, with lots of space, a bar/dj place, a beautiful garden and a pool with slide. I had a great time, meeting even more new people, and I also got to chill in a hammock, my favorite!

Me in the hammock! They are so comfortable

A shot with the pool - with slide! - and hot tub...along with crazy Mexicans drinking out of a beer bong, but with rum & coke instead! Yum!

The next morning, after sleeping in a huge tent, people were already drinking chelas by 8 am but I took it a little easier. Hung out in the sun by the pool for a bit, and then Brenda and her boyfriend Alejandro (different Alejandro) and I departed for Tepotzlán, a "magical village." It was truly adorable and gorgeous at the same time, with the hill overlooking the town housing an ancient pyramid that you can hike up to. We ate lunch at the famous Los Colorines restaurant, in which many a famous visitor has left an autograph. We wandered the streets, eating ice cream ("snow") and drinking micheladas, the beer with salt, lime and hot sauces, both of which Tepotzlán is famous for. It was a great stop and I love seeing the pueblitos.

Chilling at the pool in the morning sun

Tepotzlán, Pueblo Mágico-you can just see the pyramid in the mountains

Brenda and Alejandro inside our lunch spot - behind them is the open kitchen, where you can see everything the abuelitas are cooking!

With my lovely host Brenda outside of our famous lunch spot - holding the michelada! And I'm actually not that pale, it's the flash, I swear.

We headed back to D.F. and while Brenda slept in back, Alejandro drove us home along the "free" highway. There is also a tollway and a highway. We arrived on the tollway, faster but more hectic and less country-life scenery. Going back, we took the free highway, which wound through pueblos and the countryside, including past the most beautiful cemetery I've ever seen, and I was glad I got to see all this as well. He then took me around the city a bit..I even started recognizing bits by the end! Something I found really interesting was the monument to Mothers. I've never seen a monument just to mothers in the U.S...shows Mexicans devotion to their mamas! It was interesting though, the inscription on the Mother Monument said, "A la que nos amó antes de conocernos," translated as "To the one that loved us before meeting us." Also underneath it follows, "Porque su maternidad fue voluntario," meaning "Because her motherhood was voluntary." Kind of seemed like an interesting choice of words to me, since there are certainly mothers who accidentally and even unwillingly take on the role...made me wonder what it might imply culturally.

Monumento a la madre - a la que nos amó antes de conocernos

Angel de la Independencia - Famous Angel of Independence Statue

The next day we head to Teotihuacán to see the two famous pyramids, Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon. However, I first got to pick some limes from Alejandro's tree--I love limes, and they were amazing and juicy! Well, there's not much to say about the pyramids, as a picture really does the job, but we were lucky that it wasn't sunny that day. We definitely climbed both of them and they were big! I happened to see Molly, how was on the organized trip from my school, on the pyramids-what are the chances? These pyramids were huge and awe-inspring, and moreover mind-boggling that they were able to construct them so long ago when Europeans were doing their best to put together lame little houses. However, I think I preferred the pyramids of Chichén Itzá, in the Yucatán Peninsula, because I prefer jungle and greenery around the pyramids..the desert setting of Teotihuacán wasn't quite my thing. However, they're obviously amazing, I just like feeling like Indiana Jones.

Me and the limes!

On top of the Pyramid of the Sun, with the Pyramid of the Moon in the left background, where we had discovered Molly!

Embracing the sun in front of Pirámide del Sol

After that we headed on over to the nearby Reino Animal, or Animal Kingdom. I think it's really interesting to go to zoos in other countries, and since we didn't have time to go to the Mexico City Zoo to see the pandas, we headed over there. At first there were just cows and a random giraffe, and I though...hmm..some Kingdom. However, we then boarded a car that took us on a "safari," where we drove right by ostriches, zebras, giraffes, buffalo and camels, who came up to eat the food we had purchased. We also drove by tigers and lions, after changing into fenced-in cards. I was about one foot from a tiger..they are so beautiful! Definitely interesting. I love animals! And the safari was actually pretty cool for them, because they had a decent area to roam.

Feeding the camel!

After the Animal Kingdom, we started on the D.F. Culinary Tour. First, we had dinner at Toño's, an amazing restaurant I totally recommend to everyone. They had all great Mexican food at a great price...I loved it. We had Pozole, a tasty soup, with avocado, horchata, lots of different salsas, sopes, quesadillas and enfrijoladas, and finishing with flan. We then headed to Coyoacán, an awesome neighborhood that reminded me of Seattle in a way, what with the guitarists, the kind of hippie vibe, the coffee, etc. It was really cute! We swung by the "Starbucks of Mexico" for some Mexican hot chocolate, then rounded the corner to get a Bailey's churro. After that, we had some esquite, corn with mayonaise, cheese, chili and hot sauce. At this point, we were sooo incredibly full, but it was all delicious. We wandered around Coyoacán for a bit, taking in the great atmosphere, then headed home.

Our meal at Toño's...amazing delicious!

The Starbucks of Mexico, El Jarocho

Showing off parts of the eating tour...hot chocolate, churro, ejites

On the side of the cathedral, where an indigenous dance was going on, joined in by Mexicans with polo shirts...they were pretty good too

The main plaza in Coyoacán-every Mexican town, no matter how small, has one

After talking with wonderful Brenda for awhile and laughing over the weekend's photos, we went to bed. Early the next morning, Brenda took me to the metro station and we said good-bye. I had such an amazing, fun weekend and am so grateful! Gracias

Tapalpa

I'll keep this description short after that wordy one about Mexico City. This was also only a one night trip. Tapalpa is a village in the mountains around Guadalajara, about a 2.5 hour drive away. We all met up at a friend's house and the 8 of us headed up into the mountains, 2 people hanging out in the back of the truck. Here, a lot of people have trucks and you'll often see over 10 people in back..definitely saves having to take so many cars, despite the safety questions. I was having a blast, twisting up the mountain road into the sun and drinking micheladas-felt so Mexican! However, a song from the TV show Glee came on the radio, reminding me of the nearby US. After a gorgeous drive up the mountains (I'm not kidding, beautiful), we stopped in a little village for snacks and there was a perfect view of a beautiful, snow-covered mountain. My first real, true mountain I've seen here (at least for me)-I loved it! Arriving in the village, we went to the house which was this gorgeous mansion with an awesome view. My photos can't be uploaded, so just take my word on it. We grilled for dinner and sat around talking, playing guitar and singing, along with the other 5 people who showed up. Great spanish practice, of course.

The next morning, I got up and walked around the adorable village of Tapalpa. The church was interesting, made of brick and very cool inside. I enjoyed that the weather up there was not quite so hot as before. We tried walking to the famed Piedrotas, but found out they were a lot further away than we believed. However, we headed out there a bit later in the truck. The Piedrotas are huge rocks randomly left in the middle of the field..huge size! It was a great sight. We then headed back to Guadalajara that evening.

The village of Tapalpa..everything is this reddish color, including the roofs

Las Piedrotas - these rocks are huge!

Random Tapatío Life

I've always found travel blogs in which people write about the everyday parts of their life abroad most interesting-though these little details have become normal to the writer, these small differences are some of the most exciting rewards of travel, I think-so here we go.

Bargaining

I get a thrill out of bargaining here, on some things. One case is taxis. In Guadalajara, taxis are required to have a taxi meter, and I'm pretty sure they won't even turn on if it isn't working. But tons of drivers will say they don't have one, or it's broken, and then want to bargain with you over the price. I like to demand a taxi meter and wait if they are jerks about it, but if I'm forced to bargain, it is exciting! I like to quote past trips as evidence for the need to lower the taxi price..last taxi I got down from 90 pesos to 50. Bam! With the taxi meter, the taxis really aren't too bad. I was quoted a price from someone from Tlaquepaque, a suburb of Guadalajara, to the center of 200 pesos, about $16, and after being told that was a "great deal" and no one would do it for less than that, the taxi meter taxi we took cost 45 pesos, about $4 USD.

I also like to argue my way free into clubs and bars, and since I don't really ever go to places I have to pay cover at in the U.S., I'm honing a good skill. Usually if I just pout for a few minutes, they ask "are you alone?" and then let you in. Good money saver!

I'm also practiced at talking down prices on unreasonable fruits, like a 30 peso mango in Puerto Vallarta, that I just gave 20! nice. However, I feel bad bargaining if it's like a handmade shirt someone made or they probably need the money. So I'm not such a good bargainer..but I try.

Nightlife

I feel like I kind of mix it up on where I go, though I always spend Tuesdays at Wall St., my favorite bar-with-dancing with an outside terrace with a beach bar, only a 10 minute walk from home! Mondays I usually take it easy, though last Monday I went to a bar and played Beer Pong, haha. Thursdays I can usually be found at Wing's Army, an "American military themed" bar that has locations everywhere. On Thursdays it's really cheap so I've gone quite a few times..my roommate Molly's novio is a big fan. Otherwise, I've often headed to salsa dance at the Mutualista, a salsa bar with live band. I love salsa music, but don't know how to dance to it..but that doesn't stop people from dancing with me all night! I'm terrible, oh well.

Wall Street, my second home

Weekends vary. As a sample, this was my most recent weekend here in Guadalajara. I started the weekend on Thursday (don't have class on Fridays) by going to the Classic, a fancy swanky bar with oldies music covered in red velvet and leather that we had earlieraccidentally stumbled on right by our house. They just give us free drinks there, so it's a great stop. This time we each bought a drink and then had free fancy shots and drinks brought to us for hours. We swung across to the street to Wall Street, where it was salsa night, and danced for a bit. Caught a taxi downtown looking for an Irish bar with free "jelly shots" for St. Patty's, couldn't find it, so we instead went to bar and got micheladas. I absolutely love them-beer with salt, lime and various hot sauces. They're amazing! Swung back by Classic for some free fancy gin shots and some sparkling water, then walked home. Friday, though I don't have classes, I had an all-day session on entering my career path, writing a resume...ugh. I was completely exhausted and had another session the next morning at 8 am, so I stayed in, but the plan was, I would have gone to Wall St. and hung out with some of my best Mexican friends and danced the night away. First time I've stayed in on a Friday, so maybe not a good sample! After my Saturday all-day in school, ugh (this was a one-time thing), I went with my host brother to a friend's house. We drove around to various locations, going to a street music festival in Chapultepec that was really cool. We ended the night at the Red Pub, a "British-style" pub near our house. It's set up pretty cool and I felt like I was in a British street! Sunday we meant to go to a music festival in Tequila, a pueblo nearby of Tequila fame, but ditched that idea and went to the pool at a friend Diego's house. We wound up getting there by the time the sun was almost down and the pool sucked, but we ordered pizza and drank Tequila so I forgave the lack of pool quality. Dominoes here actually isn't bad..no Papa John's but it's way better! Nothing like a Sunday night party..and so ended my weekend. Every one is different, but there's a sample!

Tequila

Just want to mention that I was at a food tasting party for an entrepreneur whose business I'm helping launch and met a woman who grew up in the pueblo Don Julio is from and she would always go to his factory and once a year he'd give out free bottles to everyone. Since my dad is a huge Don Julio fan, I had to be impressed. The town of Tequila, which I've visited twice, is about an hour and a half from here. It's a cute pueblo, though the second time it was so rainy we just tested tequila the whole time. It was actually a great day, besides the very strange downpour. Lots of free varieties of tequila!

Food

In short, I love the food! I've mentioned food earlier, but just wanted to reaffirm I love it. I love chili, I put it on everything. Some of my favorite foods are: chilaquiles (kind of long soggyish-nachos with beans, but way better), enfrijoladas (tortillas covered in frijoles and cheese), liquados (milk blended with fruit-usually I have strawberry, mango or banana), guacamole, pico de gallo, fresh mangoes, chips with Valentina hot sauce on them, popcorn with hot sauce, taquitos, elote (corn with mayonaise, hot sauce and chili), quesadillas with chili, frijoles and avocado, sopes (like tostados with frijoles, potatoes or cheese, lettuce, sauces), molletes (baguette with frijoles and cheese on top), a "sopa" of seasoned rice with veggies, my beloved micheladas, tacos....as you can tell, I love frijoles, but I eat a lot of other things too..those are just my favorites.

Elote

Michelada

Enfrijoladas

My beloved chilaquiles

Mangoes

What People Call Me

People in the streets will always yell at me güera or güerita, which means "blondie." Since blondie is not exactly a respectful term in English, I was at first kind of offended, but after I noticed my friend said, "Thanks, güero" to a guy who helped us park, I just realized everyone uses it just to describe someone who doesn't have black hair..or is lighter skinned..whatever. Just like people will refer to the skinnier or the fatter person of the group as "skinny" or "fatty," people use physical characteristics more to refer to each other. Instead of "Hey you, watch out for the car," it's "Hey blond one, watch out for the car." I've also been referred to as "chinita," meaning curly, but güerita is my usual name. No one has called me flaquita or gordita (skinny or fatty) yet, so I think güerita is all I'm getting.