Guadalajara

Guadalajara

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Fútbol, Música, The Veggie Life

Well, I actually have a lot of homework tonight (what??) so I had to stay home and skip out on Club "Chess." However, my homework stamina is at about 2 minutes a day so here's a break. A couple things to mention.

Fútbol: I went to my first soccer game, Chivas! means lady goat. It was fun and the crowd was pretty rowdy, especially the die-hard fans behind the goal. We had cheaper seats and therefore the crowd was a little more relaxed. I was really tired through all of it, so perhaps I'll have to go again to really soak up that ambience. To be honest, I suppose I was expecting something a little crazier, but it was the first game of the season and there were a lot of empty seats--I'm sure the intensity will be rising.

Music: A cool thing is that there is so much music in Spanish around this world that I don't hear English music so frequently in bars or clubs (and if so, it's Sexy Bitch, which is ok by me), the majority of English being attributed to Pitbull. I'm trying to gather up these songs, but I always forget how they go the next morning-oh well. Another English song getting a lot of play is something that goes like this: SEX, SEX, SEX ON THE BEACH for 5 minutes--shout out to inglés! Otherwise, I am picking up some banda and salsa favorites. On my birthday, I went to another birthday party of a friend whose birthday was also that day. They had rented a karaoke song so I learned many many banda and other traditional Mexican songs, along with some reggaeton favorites. So many songs! Some of us stayed until 5.30 am singing so I got quite the education. I feel like a lot of music I heard out in Germany was English, so I'm glad I'm picking up lots of new hits here.

Speaking of Germany, it is interesting thinking about arriving in Germany (referencing my year spent there 2006-2007) and arriving in Mexico. I often find myself thinking back to those first weeks in Germany. Most significantly, life here is so, so, so much easier, due to the fact I can already somewhat communicate in Spanish. I can communicate any idea I want-it's amazing! I spent a lot of time in Germany at the beginning zoning out while other people talked around me and desperately trying to understand things through body language-what a difference some language study makes! I have to say my German experience has definitely helped me here. For instance, I had to give a short speech in my business class today--while I'm sure I butchered it, it seemed relatively easy after my forced speech to a German class at the beginning of my time there, which consisted mostly of "um..ich..like.." Also, I am very very practiced at faking it if I don't know the details. If, for instance, I don't quite understand what I'm supposed to do for a project or where I should be going, I've learned that usually makes itself clear, with no need to stress about it...just copying others around you does a lot of good (when you're just trying to keep up--not a life lesson). This is of course eased by the kindness and willingness to help of students at my school (making this situation a little easier than at my school in Germany). For instance, my class is meeting at this institution this Saturday morning. Everyone drives except for me, so several people offered to come pick me up, without even having talked to me. So nice! Less likely in Germany, so maybe I am getting spoiled, but I love them both of course!

A hot topic that I'm sure everyone is dying to know about: Leah making her way as a vegetarian in Mexico. Summary: very easy! I am lucky, I'm sure, that I'm living with a host family that is willing to accommodate me and is not trying to sneakily put meat in my food (has totally happened elsewhere!). I also don't spend any time at restaurants. However, so much of the food here can be made with meat, but it doesn't have to be. For instance, one of my favorite dishes, chilaquiles, basically comes with a sauce, corn chips, cotija cheese, salsa and beans. Most people pay a little more to get chicken, but not me. Also, frijoles are all over the place. This is kind of a "substitute" for meat for me, in that I can take a dish with just frijoles. Other cuisines around the world don't have a popular easy substitute for meat, so I've really lucked out. I love love love the food here--muy rica!! For example, our simple Sunday family barbeque: Agua fresca, grilled onions and quesadillas with frijoles, pico de gallo and guacamole. I don't even know where people have room for meat! Sure, I am "missing out" on meat dishes, i.e. mole and torta ahogada, but since I don't like meat anyways, I wouldn't enjoy them..just as I am "missing out" on steak and burgers back home. I've read that very few Mexicans are vegetarians, but my host family knows several people who are. Just yesterday, I spoke with two separate guys. Interestingly, both made a remark such as "I'm such a carnivore! I love meat" and then it came up I was a vegetarian. One could guess they would be amazed/weirded out/try to convince me to try meat, but in fact, both got very excited and proceeded to tell me all about the great choices of Mexican dishes without meat. Never happened to me in the U.S.!

In regards to "things I have read about Mexico," I read, before my departure, in a book called "Culture Shock!: Mexico" that Mexico, in some ways, is very much a caste system. This book was written by a British guy who had lived in Mexico for 20 years. After 2.5 weeks here, I'm definitely not passing judgement on this, but I just wanted to share a couple things people have said to me that I found interesting. A friend of mine told me the other day, "There is no racism in Mexico. There is just class prejudice. If you have money, it doesn't matter who you are--money is all that matters." Clearly, these two ideas are connected and as he was drinking when he said this, I'm not sharing this as a fact, but rather as an opinion. Speaking of racism, I passed a restaurant today called "El Negro" with a very, very stereotypical "darkface" image. I would definitely call that racism, but perhaps that doesn't have the same connotations here-still, it was strange. Furthermore, on the class aspect, someone, talking about their maid, said, "she is no one, she doesn't matter." Although I don't know anyone in the U.S. with a maid, this statement seems rather extreme to me. I wonder why she is "no one"

Friday, January 15, 2010

Classes, Cats, Crashes, Crackin Times

Well, I had my other two classes (had to drop the Africa one). They're alright, it's so amazing that I feel I can understand almost everything, maybe I'm just not with it. One is actually mostly going to be consisting of working with entrepreneurs to develop business plans, outside the classroom. The profesora is also sending us on a mission to go to a shady part of Guadalajara and interview small business people this weekend--should be interesting. The worst part is that next Saturday I have to wake up at 7 am to meet the people I'll be working with...ugh, kill me.

Below is my house's dog, Arcadia. She's crazy but really cute, though sometimes I'm afraid she's gonna jump on me and break my arm or something (way bigger than she looks here, she's huge!)
In keeping with my title, I wanted to mention the severe lack of felines here...there are tons of stray dogs everywhere, but I've only seen ONE cat. I have probably seen about 9,000 dogs. I'm not sure of the reason for this. My host dad says people prefer dogs here. Ok, but I still need more of an explanation--Senior Thesis "Where have all the cats gone"

It's raining right now, the first time since my arrival. I have never spent time somewhere that is significantly polluted, in comparison to Seattle/Portland: most of the time I don't notice it, but sometimes I wish I didn't have to breathe. A couple days ago, I was walking to the bus and I felt so dirty and gaspy; it made me really miss the rain to clear things out (and more importantly, a less polluted environment). It's quite sad...while I'm always aware of pollution back home, it seems that I am constantly reminded of the consequences of any polluting action I take here when I take a breath. Speaking of which, we don't have recycling at my house; it's terrible, I've been stockpiling paper like a "weirdo" to take my university to recycle.

I got in my first car crash last night (not as the driver), minor but the car wouldn't start after the impact. After hours-long waiting around, during which both insurance representatives took lots of photos and signatures, while the crasher paid off the police, we finally piled into the tow truck. The space for one person was squished full with 5, so it was a long ride home. Speaking of crashes, the "unsafe" things I see people sometimes doing make me so scared--for instance, a teenager was riding his bike, with a kid about 6 years old standing on his shoulders and holding onto his head, flying through the wind (of course, no helmets). Jeez! Can't say I'm trying to jump on that bandwagon.

I haven't really discussed my social life as of yet, so here's a taste. I've gone to some bars with sponsored events through my university, as well as bars with people we met at those events. One of my favorite events was the mariachi concert next door, but I've been liking getting my groove on at Wall St. Tonight I'm going to an extranjera's bday party who I don't know. I imagine it's mostly extranjeros, which is a shame as everyone just speaks English, but maybe I will make a nice Mexican amigo! Otherwise, yes...bars! parties! went to Starbucks yesterday! am I still in Seattle? One cool difference is Corona & Pacífico are domestic...yeee. I'll leave you with that.


Monday, January 11, 2010

First Day of School

Just a quick update on my first day of classes, of which I only had two.
First, here is a photo of my Cabo-lookalike campus:

First, I went to my differential equations class, which was full (I got secretly added to the full class). The professor had a different accent, and the students would not stop talking! Ah, are we in middle school. However, each desk had squishy, swivel chairs so life was good. I followed it pretty well and I've already done some of this stuff in Calc 2 so we'll see.
Then, I had my Contemporary Hispanic American Lit class. I was kind of worried the professor was going to say, "You barely speak Spanish! Get out of here!" However, this professor was awesome, he was super funny and really nice. Plus, we are only reading 2 books, the rest will just be short stories and poetry, meaning I can totally read it (no banking on understanding it). We went around and introduced ourselves, and talked about our favorite books. I liked this guy too, because I could understand everything he said. People kept talking too, but not as much, and it was also more appropriate (though still unwelcome!) compared to my math class. I'm pumped to read some Borges!

Then I spent about 4 hours doing random stuff that needed to be done, plus hung out in our bomb bomb bomb library. It has hella books, I checked out Agatha Christie in Spanish, some Borges, some grammar workbooks, and many more books are going to be checked out when I have room in my purse. I stupidly forgot I was going to school here, so I don't have a backpack..or a calculator, now that I think about it..ugh.

Incidentally, before I start moaning about forgetting a backpack, taking the bus home, I saw the first dead body I've ever seen in life. It seems there was a motorcycle accident. I passed by in the bus, more delayed by traffic than usual, and there was just a blue tarp on a man lying on his stomach, yet only over his head. People just standing around, looking...and his shoes were off, his socks too.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

First Week

This past week was orientation week at my new uni, Tec de Monterrey, Campus Guadalajara. Me and a lot of Europeans and Aussies hanging out, speaking English and being kind of lame. Since I've been busy doing lots of things (too busy to blog, ha), I'll just comment on a few things that have stood out to me.

1. Buses. I've ridden about 4 buses most everyday I've been here, so I have some thoughts to share. First of all, buses work differently than I'm accustomed to, in that drivers are paid on commission; they receive the money each rider gives them. Therefore, this explains some things that are frustrating to a new user, like me; there are no transfers, so you have to pay the driver for each different bus, and also drivers speed ahead to try and beat other drivers to get the money. Also, there is no schedule; you just go to the stop and wait. It's kind of liberating, in that you're never "late for the bus," but it's kind of a bummer, in that you never know when it might come. As I hinted at in my first post, it's often said women get groped in buses, thievery, etc. What I have to say to that is, whatever. As I remarked, I've been spending hours in the bus each day and I have never been leered at nor feared for my valuables. Instead, people are incredibly kind and helpful, way more than in the U.S. This makes me think this is some conspiracy to make Americans not want to see the real Mexico. Bus drivers are so helpful; I kept overpaying them and they always gave me even 10 cents back. People are great about getting up for older people, disabled, etc. Even a little girl I saw, probably about 5 years old, asked another little girl to share her seat today. Now that's bien educada...When I was standing and having a hard time holding my stuff, a woman sitting in a seat near me took and held my things for me. At first, I was kind of wary...but she really was just trying to help me out. The bus is filled with interesting characters. Often people will get on the bus and either play music (guitars, flutes, singing) or sell sweets. Live music, it's pretty awesome. It's interesting seeing which performers/sellers get the most money from riders. A final thing is that every driver, with the exception of one, has some sort of tribute to Jesus in his bus, with a big poster, cross, etc. (the exception had a hot lady instead). One driver today had a graphic crucifixion statue with blinking neon lights all over it (dios mío). The buses are so colorful and everyone tries to help you out, especially since I am so lost and there's not really a way to plan a trip or see where buses actually go.

2. Friendliness/Kindness/etc.
Guadalajara is bigger (and probably more sprawling? who knows) than L.A., yet I've experienced so much friendliness, I feel like I'm in Platteville, Wisc., or maybe even a smaller town that that. When I ask for directions, people will call their friends/family members if they don't know, until they find someone who does. A woman today, who we asked for directions, just drove us to what we were looking for. When looking for a bar, which we couldn't find, the taxi driver pulled over and we went together door-to-door, looking for someone who could tell us the bar's location. Those are just a few of the many, many examples of really kind people I have met, and it's always a great surprise.

3. European-yet-not-really Beauty of the City
I have been several places in Guadalajara, besides my university and a visit to the small town of Tequila (and our tour of the factory), and it is gorgeous, in so many different ways. The houses are vibrantly painted, with flowers and interesting doorways or detail. Even when there is trash all around in some areas, somehow it doesn't take away the beauty for me--it just makes things seem so much more real and exciting than, say, the Netherlands (no offense). In this really nice neighborhood, where artesans have taken over old mansions, every single one is absolutely gorgeous, with open courtyards, beautiful flowers and curling, delicate gates. The least-nice neighborhoods I've seen are beautiful too; while not ornate, I love looking at each house, with its vibrant colors and character. Houses here have soul! Furthermore, I think GDL has a very very Spanish feel. Each neighborhood has a plaza, of course, with a cathedral, town hall, etc. I literally feel like I'm back in Spain, no joke. The architecture, the winding streets, the style of everything, even the signs...it's crazy. Yet I don't mean to say this is Spain Jr. in anyway--I like this better than Madrid, etc. because I find the feeling more vibrant and exciting (less stuffy, maybe). Yet you definitely get the Spanish influence.

Well, I have my first day of classes tomorrow at the Tec, and I'm exhausted, so I'm out. I'll have to post some pictures of campus, I feel like I'm at a resort in Cancun, it's gorgeous. I'm taking all normal classes with other Mexican students, so we'll see how it goes tomorrow. I'm taking Differential Equations, Contemporary Latin American Literature, Economic Structures of Mexico, Planning Microenterprise for Social Development and Regional Studies of Africa.

Miss you all!

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Bienvenidos

Arrived today after a grueling plane flight of no sleep and a kid kicking my back the whole way. My host mom and dad picked me up from the airport..I wasn't really clear who was who at first, in that I wasn't sure who I'd been emailing, but I think I've put it together.

It was really cool driving through the outskirts of Guadalajara. There were some neighborhoods that seemed to be completely made out of mud bricks, streets, houses, everything, yet they were really beautiful and colorful because of all the clothing hanging out on lines and people playing soccer all over the place (it's a Sunday). The craziest thing was I couldn't believe it wasn't July, it was so sunny and warm.

The house is in this nice neighborhood Providencia--the house is actually bigger than it looks and I really love it here. My room is awesome--there's a cool vintage mirror and view of palm trees. The whole house seems pretty airy, appropriate for the location. The daughter who lives at home is 23 and works at Corona! and is really nice, along with the parents--so warm and friendly, I love it. There is an hermano who is older and doesn't live there anymore.

Apparently there's another girl from the U.S. living here who is in another bedroom. Well, first day of orientation tomorrow, wish me luck not getting groped on the bus!